Learn to make shorts patterns according to YOUR measurements; and they're guaranteed to fit!
SHORTS WITH GATHERED WAIST
To give you an illustration of how easy it is to make a pattern, let's make a shorts pattern with a gathered waist. For the example, we'll use a hip measurement of 42 inches, crotch length of 10" (measure the crotch while sitting in a straight back chair and measure from the waist to the chair then add 1 1/4" (ours being 10") and shorts length of 20 inches. Remember, when you make the shorts pattern for yourself you simply use YOUR hip, crotch and shorts length measurements instead of these sample ones.
Steps for drawing the FRONT of the shorts pattern:
1. Draw a vertical line to equal the desired length of the shorts plus 3" for the elastic casing (our example being 23"). Measuring from the top, make a mark along the vertical line to equal the crotch measurement + 3" (13"). NOTE: The additional 3" added to the crotch measurement is for the elastic casing for the shorts. Draw a horizontal line at the TOP of the vertical line to equal H / 4 = 10 1/2". Draw a second horizontal line at the lower crotch measurement mark to equal H / 4 + 10 1/2". Complete the "box" as shown.
2. Beginning at the lower right hand corner of the box, measure OUT 2", as shown. From the same lower corner, measure UP 4". Draw a diagonal line to connect the two marks just made. Divide the diagonal line in half and measure IN 3/4", and draw in the curving front crotch line, as shown.
3. To complete the front shorts pattern, draw a horizontal line from the bottom of the vertical length line to equal H / 4 + 2" to equal 12 1/2". Next, connect the end of the line just drawn to the outside edge of the crotch line previously drawn.
Steps for drawing the BACK of the shorts pattern:
1. Draw around the front shorts pattern, as shown with dashed lines.
2. Beginning at the outside edge of the waistline, measure IN 3/4" and UP 1/2". Draw a straight line connecting the in 3/4" and up 1/2" marks to the crotch line curve that's on the front pattern.
3. At the outside edge of the crotch curve, measure OUT 1 1/4" and DOWN 1/4". This mark becomes the crotch extension for the back. Draw in the curving line to connect the new crotch extension mark up to the crotch curve that's on the front pattern.
The last step is to draw in the new "inside" leg line -- drawing from the new crotch extension point to the bottom of the leg.
Remember you have not allowed for seams yet, so after making the shorts pattern, mark the 5/8" seam allowance all around and a 2" hem. The seam allowance will be drawn around the shorts up to the waist (remember we have already allowed 3" at the top for the elastic casing). You can draw in a short vertical line in the middle of the pattern that will be parallel to the side to use as the "straight grain" line, when placing the pattern on the fabric.
You can draw your shorts pattern on grocery bags that have been cut open, or on newspapers, or you can get regular pattern paper from http://SewWithSarah.com
We hope you've enjoyed this FREE class, and can see how well the pattern fits, since you've used your OWN measurements, and not a "standard" set of measurements that the pattern companies use. This FREE project is an excerpt from the "Make Your Own Slacks / Shorts Patterns" class.
To order the complete slacks / shorts class that gives individual instructions and diagrams on making all styles of shorts, slacks and culottes, simply click on the pay pal link below.
PM-1OO3 - Make Your own Slacks and Shorts Patterns $14.95
PMF-1OO3 - Make Your Own Full Figure Slacks and Shorts Patterns $14.95
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