If you’re the kind of person that likes to change that basic dress or blouse (or sweater) into a variety of styles just by adding a faux collar or bow collar, this tutorial is for you! This collar tutorial will be a “custom” collar that uses your basic blouse or dress pattern as the basis for making the collar.
Materials needed:
1/3 yd print fabric; 1/3 yd solid matching fabric and matching thread
TO MAKE THE PATTERN:
Using your basic round neck dress or blouse pattern, follow these steps:
FRONT:
Beginning at the end of the shoulder line, (don’t go all the way to the end of the seam allowance — just the shoulder line) make a “square” as indicated in the above diagram, and draw a straight line 8″ long. At the end of the 8″ line, draw a straight line to the center front that will be “squared” to the center front (the line will be parallel to the waist line). This piece is the front collar.
BACK:
Beginning at the end of the shoulder line, (don’t go all the way to the end of the seam allowance — just the shoulder line) make a “square” as shown above and draw a straight line 6″ long. At the end of the 6″ line, draw a straight line to the center back that will be “squared” to the center back line (the line will be parallel to the waist line). This piece is the back collar.
Copy the two collar pieces just drawn onto pattern paper — they will need to be separate pieces, rather than cutting into your blouse or dress pattern.
To complete the pattern, add 1/2″ seams all around, except the center front, which will be on the fold, as shown above.
CUTTING AND SEWING PROCEDURE:
1. Cut one front (center front on the fold) from the print fabric and the solid color fabric. Cut 2 back pieces from each fabric (print and solid).
2. Pin and sew the shoulder seams on the print fabric and on the solid fabric.
3. With right sides together, sew the two collar pieces together, leaving a 2″ area open along one of the center back seams so it can be turned.
4. Clip the curve around the neck before turning.
5. After turning the collar right sides out, press all the seams. Either hand stitch the opening closed or stick a small piece of stitch witchery inside and press closed.
6. Use a small piece of iron on velcro for the back neck closure (cut a piece approximately 1/4″ x 1/2″ and secure as in the following picture.
By using velcro in this manner, you will have a reversable collar which can be used with many of your clothes. Here is the finished product – printed side
Or solid side on a basic black top:
Want to make a BOW COLLAR?
Cut 2 strips of the solid or printed fabric 8″ long and 2 1/2″ side. With right sides together, using 1/2″ seams, sew the two long sides to make a tube. Turn right side out and fold the end seams to the inside, press and hand sew the end seams to finish the strip.
To make the closure, use iron on velcro pieces 1/4″ x 1/2″ – place one on opposite ends of the strip to make a closed band, as shown:
Place the finished strip at the center front collar to make a bow, as shown below.
Dress up your favorite basic dress or blouse with an assortment of collars and bows.
For a variety collar styles, see our pattern changing – collars class here at our Sew With Sarah website.
In addition to making a variety of collars, you may also want to make new necklines and new sleeve styles for that basic dress or blouse. There are so many changes you can make to that one basic pattern, you may not need to buy another pattern.